wakarimasen... ( "I don't understand!" )

The Return (Day 20) Going, going... gone? Typhoon Melor.

2009-10-08T04:32:00.010+09:00

(Not much of a photo, but it tells the story - flooded rivers and unusually deserted streets!)

We left our hotel early to meet the students at Tokyo Station. The information screens on the train were announcing the closure of many services due to to the typhoon. At Tokyo station we found that our express to Narita had been cancelled, but we were able to take an earlier (but slower) local train. There were a lot of delays along the way. On arrival at Narita it was confirmed that our Singapore Airlines flight had been delayed for 8 hours, but they could organise 12 tickets on an ANA flight leaving in an hour or so. But the time we'd been weighed, re-ticketed and x-rayed we had to run the length of the airport to make our flight!

The take-off was the scariest I've experienced. As the winds buffeted the jet, it swerved from side to side as it accelerated up the runway. We were getting knocked around in the seats. The turbulence continued for at least the first 15 minutes of the flight - until we were above the weather. Amazingly, after our little adventure, we didn't get into Changi any later than our original schedule!

When the train doors opened it was obvious that the winds were still high..

(photo from ABC online)

(photo from CBS)

(photo from Times online)
5:33 a.m.: Not sure at this stage whether Typhoon Melor will ground our flight or not...

6:30 pm (Singapore time) We got out! It was only later that we saw the damage on the news...

The Return (Day 19) - Sayonara

2009-10-07T21:31:00.002+09:00

Our last day at Asuka Senior High and the students put on a fantastic Sayonara party - lots of laughs, tears, food, music and exchanging of gifts!

We hope this is only the end of the first chapter of lifetime relationships between Japanese and Aussies.

The Return (Day 18) Tokyo Disneyland!

2009-10-06T21:35:00.002+09:00

Enjoying my time with nine teenagers on a train bound for Tokyo Disneyland…

The Rainiest Kingdom of Them All. The bad news is that it’s raining. The good news is that it’s kept the crowds away so the queues are all short for the rides and movies…

Not really Lake Disney - just lights reflected in the puddles at the entrance.

A bit corny, but great singing, dancing and special effects.

This place is huge. You can even stay onsite at Disney Resort if you’re not short of yen.

Not just for children. All Japanese seem to be childlike in their love of the Disney fantasy and characters.

And some of the gaijin are rapt too…

On safari on the Jungle Cruise.

The Halloween Grand Parade.

The Return (Day 17) Back-to-school

2009-10-05T20:46:00.002+09:00

Another day at school. Ceramics class.

English language lab.

Back near our hotel, admiring the fantastic contemporary architecture for which Shinjuku is famous. The rainforest buttressed-rooted-like Yasuda Kasai Kaijo building reflected in the Zenken building’s glass walls.

The Mode Hal Iko building.

A very wet view from the 50^th floor of the Nomura building.

You get a lot of exercise in Japan just crossing a busy street – major intersections have pedestrian subterranean arcades or overpasses. Behind this one again, the Yasuda Kasai Kaijo.

Pachinko parlours abound. I can’t quite see the attraction of these pinball machines but they are EVERYWHERE.

The Return (Day 16) Shibuya, Harajuku, Yoyogi & Blue Note!

2009-10-05T06:21:00.003+09:00

We began the day in Shibuya to check out the Love Hotels on Dogen-zaka. Most hotels have foyer displays of the rooms. This one had a push-button service to reserve a room for a night or a “rest” – all done anonymously.

One of the now-famous capsule hotels for men only. Shibuya.

Bo Peeps. Harajuku station.

It was Doll’s Day at Meiji-jingu Shrine. Dolls have souls, so when their useful life has expired, must have their souls put to rest by the priests. There were tens of thousands of dolls, teddies and stuffed-toys on display. Afterwards they are disposed of “in a respectful way.”

One of the less cool shoppers on Takeshita-dori, Harajuku.

Tshirt, Takeshita-dori, Harajuku.

The highlight of my day was seeing one of the world’s great jazz acoustic bass players Ron Carter with his quartet. At 8,400 Yen for about 70 minutes, it wasn’t something that a public school teacher can afford every day – but I’ve been a fan of Ron Carter’s for years and who wouldn’t do this while in Tokyo?!

The Return (Day 15) - Kamakura

2009-10-03T17:58:00.001+09:00

We’d planned to visit Nikko for the day but a nice ex-pat Colombian we met on the train suggested this was better! Once the capital of Japan, (1185 to 1333) Kamikura is still a pleasant little train trip to the country just outside of Tokyo with beautiful temples and the amazing Daibutsu.

The Daibutsu (Great Buddha), second in size only to Todai-ji’s we saw earlier in Nara. Incredible that something 13m tall and weighing 850 tonnes could have been cast from bronze in 1252 - 857 years ago! Like the ancient Greek statues or Michelangelo’s David, the head is enlarged so that it looks perfectly-proportioned when viewed from the front base.

As you move away the head seems to grow. Like its Nara counterpart, the statue was originally protected in a huge wooden hall, but an enormous tsunami washed it away in 1495 and it’s stood exposed to the elements ever since. An earthquake in 1923 destroyed the stone pedestal, but the bronze image remained intact.

The “wings” in the back are shutters to allow light inside. From behind you can clearly see some of the 30 cast sections which were fused on-site.

For a small fee you can enter the Buddha and look right up into its hollow head. The whole edifice now stands on a shock-absorbed stainless-steel plate, so it should survive quakes in the future.

Sadly the rain became constant, so we abandoned our hiking course and headed back to Hase-dera to see the gilded 8^th C. 9m high carving of Kannon (no photo permitted) and the thousands of Jizo, patron of the souls of departed children.

Symbol of autumn, the Japanese Red Dragonfly. (Hasa-dera Gardens)

As well as the usual traditional noh characters, a stall outside Hachimangu Shrine also sold these more contemporary icons.

The Return (Day 14) - Asuka

2009-10-02T22:37:00.001+09:00

Today was our first full day at Asuka High. Our students participated in a range of lessons with their host buddies. We got to wander around the school and join in too.

Asuka is a kind of experimental state high school with special selection (about a third boys, two-thirds girls.) There is a strong emphasis on practical subjects and The Arts. The works on the walls were of a high standard.

Horticulture is also on the curriculum. I think these guys were picking grubs off the cabbages.

Some of our students had a go at Sakura on koto. Tash was a natural...

Another fantastic painting by a former student.

Sitting badminton. It improves accuracy.

Jack and friend mime a Tug o' war in a drama lesson. Drama in high school is unusual here.

In the evening the English teachers and Kocho-sensei took us out to a sumptuous kaiseki feast at Sugamo restaurant

The Return (Day 13) Shinjuku, Asakusa & Harajuku

2009-10-01T21:34:00.002+09:00

Our first day in Tokyo is a public holiday – the perfect opportunity for our students to explore the huge city with their host families and for us to get to the markets at Asakusa.

We start off where every tourist begins – the Kamanarimon gate to Nakamise shopping street and the Senso-ji temple.

Communal stroller

We can buy pretty much anything in these stalls. Honestly. Yes we can...

Worshippers purify themselves with incense before praying in the temple

A procession of monks files past the Hozo-mon.

Touching these giant rice-straw rope sandals is supposed to make you a good walker. I always strive to be a better Walker

In the afternoon we took a train to Takeshita Street in Harajuku. It's a busy place.

Busy places have to have rules...

The Return (Day 12) - The Way of Tea

2009-09-30T06:41:00.004+09:00

First some more from yesterday. After Mt Shosha we made our way to the Hyogo Museum of History with its displays of the prefecture’s wares over the millennia.

Himeji castle is reflected in the glass walls of the museum.

Charlie dons a samurai warrior’s helmet.

Charlie dons a samurai warrior's helmet.

Tash won the lottery-draw to be dressed in the junihitoe (12-layered kimono) formerly worn by princesses.

Now to today...

The Way to Tea. We follow the back-streets of Himeji behind the castle to the home of Itsuyo...

Itsuyo Tatsuta has been learning The Way of Tea from her Sensei in Kyoto for almost 30 years. When she heard we were coming back she said she and her Tea students would love to instruct our students in The Way of Tea. The new name for Tea Ceremony is appropriate – it’s a whole field of knowledge applying not just to the ritual itself, but the pottery, the bamboo-craft, the art, the flower-arranging, the poetry and the seasonal aspect of sharing tea and sweets with special guests. We were very honoured to be given the opportunity to be given instruction in the centuries-old traditions of tea and to participate in the making and serving of O-cha.

Mitchell whisks...

Alex wipes.

The Return (Day 11) Engyoji

2009-09-29T16:57:00.002+09:00

Today we caught a No. 8 bus and a ropeway (cablecar) to the Engyoji Temple Complex at Mt Shosha. 8 of the temple buildings and 7 of the Buddhas are classified as "Important Cultural Properties."

The 2km walk from the cablecar station to the top of the mountain is lined with dozens of statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy also known as Boddhisatva. Some of the images are senju-kannon, the thousand-armed incarnation who is capable of helping all.

Ryan rings the giant bronze bell which on New Year is tolled 108 times - one for each of the human failings which Buddha is said to have overcome.

At the top of Mt Shosha we met our monk guide who explained something of Buddhist philosophy.

The Daikodo - the beautiful 15th Century wooden lecture hall in the background - has found fame in contemporary times featuring in The Last Samurai. We had the special privilege of a calligraphy lesson where we traced over sutra -"shakyo"- (thoughts of the Buddha) with sumi-e brush and ink.

Sam, Jack & Shaun concentrating.

My very poor attempt at kanji calligraphy.

Then our monk guide gave us instruction in za-zen (sitting meditation). He explained the "here and now" philosophy and the need to allow thoughts to flow - to "come and go". We all surprised ourselves by sitting relatively still in the ancient darkened hall for about 20 minutes and achieving a feeling of silent calmness. Afterwards our monk demonstrated the "light whack" on Shaun. This is requested by the "whackee" by the prayer gesture to correct posture and avoid sleepiness!

The Return (Day 10) I still call Himeji home...

2009-09-29T16:56:00.001+09:00

Coming back to Himeji is like returning home for us. Old friends met us at the JR station and our hotel and joined us for lunch in the bailey in front of Himeji castle

The kind, smiling face of our dear old friend Toshi.

The intricate multiple roofs of Himeji castle.

The students were very interested in the history, design and defences of the 4oo year-old castle, thanks to the knowledge of our 3 guides Toshi-san, Keiko-san and Hata-san. We presented them with Aussie bucket-hats. Oi, oi, oi!

The Return (Day 9) Iwakuni

2009-09-27T20:51:00.006+09:00

We took a local train to Iwakuni (just inside Yamaguchi prefecture) famous for Kintai-kyo, a picturesque 5-arched wooden bridge built in 1673 and washed away by flood in 1950.

With typical Japanese ingenuity, a perfect replica was erected by 1953, complete with disguised internal reinforcements.

We crossed the Kintai-kyo Bridge to the old Samurai Quarter and climbed the hill to the reconstructed Iwakuni Castle originally built from 1603 - 8.

Trained monkey performing in the park by the old Samurai Quarter.

The Return (Day 8) Miyajima and Hiroshima

2009-09-27T17:46:00.006+09:00

The morning was spent on the beautiful island of Miyajima. Lyn & I managed to get away from the kids long enough to ask a passing Japanese tourist to take a shot of us almost at the foot of the floating torii on a low tide...

The afternoon was spent at Hiroshima's Peace Park and Peace Museum. 140,000 deaths is an almost meaningless statistic - until you read the names and stories of the individuals who were affected. This is a watch which stopped at the time of the world's first atomic explosion designed to kill civilians on the morning of August 6th, 1945.

The sandals of the now-famous Sadako, who died of leukemia while trying to complete her 1,000 paper cranes.

We were all pretty depressed after spending the afternoon at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, so it was nice when an 80+ local gentleman ("Tachibana-san") introduced himself and welcomed us to Hiroshima. He had escaped the A- bomb as he'd been conscripted to mainland China in 1945.

The Return (Day 7)- Kyoto-Okayama-Kurashiki-Hiroshima

2009-09-25T20:55:00.002+09:00

Charlie snaps Japanese tourists.

Canal, Kurashiki.

Jack & Shaun trying to catch freshwater shrimp in the canal.

Kurashiki.

Turtles sunning themselves.

Ivy Square, Kurashiki.

View of the courtyard, Ohara Art Museum, Kurashiki.

The kids like the Shinkansen!

The Return (Day 6)

2009-09-24T21:23:00.003+09:00

The Tachibana teachers organised a day for our students at Mimaki, a typical Kyoto Elementary School. Here we are trying to teach them 'Home Among the Gum Trees'!

Cleaning time. Ahh, the memories...

After the students returned to their host families, Keiko - one of the Tachibana High teachers - kindly led us on a tour of the Gekkeikan saka-gura (sake brewery.)

The Return (Day 5) Nara

2009-09-23T17:29:00.003+09:00

Leah, Alex & Tash pose in front of the tallest of the pagodas at Kofuku-ji. The 5-storey wooden structure was constructed in 1426.

Couldn't get the name of this one. Can anyone help? Apparently you rub any injured part of your body and the corresponding part on the statue and it's all better.

The Daibutsu-den Hall within the Todai-ji complex is the biggest wooden building in the world. It was rebuilt in 1709 at a mere two thirds of its original size. The Daibutsu (Great Buddha) within is cast from 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold.

Behind the giant Buddha, cut into the base of a supporting pillar, is a square hole reputedly the same size as the Great Buddha's nostril. It's said that the person who can fit through the hole will become enlightened. This kid is yet to be enlightened.

Made it! She will be enlightened...

No trip to Kyoto would be complete without a visit to the nearby Nara, Japan's capital 1300 years ago!

The Return (Day 4)

2009-09-22T23:59:00.003+09:00

Reflection of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in its surrounding pond.

The Woodcroft kids' host buddies join us for a group shot at the main gate of Nijo-jo.

Genki Sean, Jack, Charlie & Ryan goofing around outside the entrance to Nijo Palace.

Today we took our students to Kinkakuji ("The Golden Pavilion") and Niji-jo (The Nijo Castle)

The Return (day 3)

2009-09-21T21:00:00.010+09:00

At night Yoko showed us part of old Gion we hadn't visited before , the original Tea House and pleasure district where the art of geisha originated.

After a small donation to the temple, Kelly soaks her paper in water to reveal her Good Fortune...

Kimone no Michi. ("The Path of Tree Roots") over the pass.

Lunch on a stream...

The route over Mt Kurama.

View from Kurama-dera.

Great views on the way up to Kibune...

Tengu and big-nosed- gaijin...

Lunch at Kibune.

A free day for the students today to spend with their host families around Kyoto, so a "rest" day for us, too! It was a public holiday today - part of "Silver Week" - so we didn't rest! We met up with our old friend Yoko from Himeji, took a bus & train to Kibune-Guchi, then hiked to Kibune where we had a fantastic traditional Japanese lunch on a platform over a mountain stream. Then we walked up Mt Kurama, visited Kurama-dera Temple and then down thousands of stone steps to the town of Kurama in the valley on the other side of the mountain. It was a beautiful autumn day - too early for many coloured leaves yet - warm enough for hiking but not too hot.

Then it was back to old Gion with its tea-houses and old geiko (geisha) district, okonomiyaki and beer for dinner and back to the hotel exhausted.

Thanks for a wonderful day, Yoko!

The Return (Day 2)

2009-09-20T22:41:00.005+09:00

Our students learn the intricasies of Inside Shoes and Shoe Lockers. (Tachibana Koko, Kyoto)

"Beauty with Equity." Litter sign, Kawaramachi Dori, Kyoto.

We're ba-ack... The Return, day 1

2009-09-20T18:09:00.003+09:00

We have returned to Japan! This time accompanied by Kerry and 9 very nice 15 and 16 year olds. We spent day 1 going from Kansai to Kyoto by train. Here we are on the 10 storey high walkway above the beautiful Kyoto JR station Kyoto behind.

Life continues...

2009-07-30T12:53:00.004+09:00

Onsen-hopping in Kinosaki, November 2008

Our meticulous journal ended very abruptly - much like our life in Japan - over seven months ago. We've decided to leave all of Rob & Lyn's Amazing Adventures in The Land of The Rising Sun posted (at least as long as Blogspot exists.)

As we say in the header, you can always read this journal backwards (which is actually the way it all happened) and learn a lot about Japan. No one sends us comments now - although you're still welcome - but the site still gets heaps of hits (Google 'wakarimasen' and our li'l ole blog still comes up third place!)

We're leading a tour of highschool students to Japan for 3 weeks in September, so there might even be some wakarimasen post-scripts yet...

day 349 - Goodbye Himeji

2008-12-16T04:28:00.005+09:00

At Himeji's Historical Museum Lyn had the chance to dress in the junihitoe, the very elaborate and beautiful twelve-layered kimono which was worn by the ladies of the Imperial Court in the Heian period (794- 1185).

Today is our last day in Himeji. We've packed so much into the past 349 days. We can't believe that almost a year has passed in this amazing place.

day 348 - Luminarie

2008-12-15T09:14:00.003+09:00

By day it's just white lattice. By night every tiny hand-painted point of light is magic...

Yesterday we went to Kobe for the last time. The annual Luminarie is amazing. The photos speak for themselves...

day 347 - Last days (2)

2008-12-14T23:13:00.003+09:00

Thanks to Ganzan Harada, my inspirational shakuhachi teacher (left).

Ganzan organised a little concert/ farewell party for us that I'll never forget...

Thanks and goodbye to all our Elementary students at Sugo, Joken, Nozato, Jokan, Mega, Johoku, Arakawa, Joyo, Shirahama and Tegara!

Hello to Year of The Cow and Goodbye to Kocho-Sensei Ueda.

Thanks to Itsuyo and her Way of Tea ladies.

Thanks Yoko!

Thanks to our friends at Shirasagi from Australia, New Zealand, US, Canada... and Japan!

day 346 - Last days...

2008-12-13T15:19:00.002+09:00

Our time in Japan is rapidly coming to a close. so we'd like to say goodbye and

Thanks to all the kids at Joken

goodbye Shirasagi apartment...

goodbye Himeji-jo & bikes...

Goodbye autumn hills of Shinzaike...

Goodbye Shiroyama kids...

day 345 - Nachi Falls

2008-12-12T21:16:00.002+09:00

On the last day of our 'pilgrimage holiday' we were lucky enough to see both boys and girls in traditional Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage costume.

With a 133m drop, Nachi-no-taki is Japan's highest waterfall.

Near the Falls are both a Shinto shrine (Nachi Taisha, built in homage to Nachi's kami or spirit deity) and a Buddhist temple.

We hooked up with a friendly group of young women from Osaka and hiked up the 800m of stone steps through sugi to the falls. Later we shared lunch with them and sampled to local specialty Soba-no-Kumano.

day 344 - Kumano Kodo (2)

2008-12-11T22:34:00.001+09:00

A few more shots of random stuff we passed on our walk from Yunomine to Hongu:

The Water-wavers. These figures scare the hell out of unsuspecting Walkers by randomly waving. They're connected by ropes to a device operated by flowing water.

A donation left in the crack of this jizo is supposed to relieve ailments. I left this for my dad's back!

Deserted hot water pot, Tea-house ruins.

Kakihari-jaya.

Shitake mushrooms growing on logs.

A tea plantation.

Most visitors approach Hongu Taisha via the 158 stone steps, although we came in the back way over the mountains. The original shrine stood further down the valley on a sandbank of the Kumano-gawa, but was washed away by a massive flood in 1889.

The main Hongu Taisha, the holiest shrine of the Kumano faith, which is said to enshrine Izanagi-Okami, the Sea God who gave birth to Japan itself.

day 343 - Kumano Kodo (1)

2008-12-10T21:33:00.004+09:00

Our Big Walk.

The entire Kumano region of Wakayama is covered with dark primeval sugi forest, steep mountains and gorges and dramatic rivers and waterfalls.

It's not surprising that the ancients believed that gods dwelled here. These local 'natural' deities were synthesised into the Shinto and Buddhist religions so today there are significant shrines and temples everywhere.

Consequently everyone, from emperors to common folk made regular pilgrimages from Kyoto and Osaka to these holiest of sites and the the Kumano Kodo - the Old Kumano Road - came into being.

Parts of the original flagstone road survive and the Kodo was granted World Heritage status a few years ago.

After our earlier walk from Tsumago to Magome on the Old Edo Road we really wanted to trek a part of the Kumano Kodo historical route; between Yunomine and the important Hongu Shrine was the perfect place.

The beginning of our day's walk was this unassuming set of steps just next to our ryokan.

We helped ourselves to a pilgrim's bamboo walking stick and returned it later.

Over the 17 km we walked through a whole range of vegetation:

... very dark sugi forest,

... mossy, fern-filled moist valleys,

and deciduous forest.

Beyond every range of mountains was another, and another.

day 342 - Yunomine

2008-12-09T22:14:00.004+09:00

We travel by bus up steep mountain roads following the Kumanogawa River from Shingu to Yunomine.

It's hard to believe that this is the roof of a building registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage site!

Yunomine's Tsuboyu is the only World Heritage hotspring in the world that you can bathe in. It's one of the oldest recorded onsens in Japan.

The village grew from the onsen founded 1800 years ago. There are numerous legends about pilgrims who recovered from 'incurable' ailments while stopping here on their Kumano Kodo trek.

Onsen Man.

We soaked in the private spring just feet from the public onsen. (I wasn't allowed to post Lyn's photo.) Of all the times we've enjoyed onsen here, there are few photos. (Taking a camera in is pretty much frowned on. This one was for private use and had a lock on the door.)

The people beyond the prayer-notes are down at river-level waiting for their eggs and vegetables to cook in the hot-water spring. The slightly sulphurous water imparts a 'very desirable taste.'

Sulphur crystals form in an 'exhaust pipe' on the river.

day 341 - Mikimoto's Pearl Island

2008-12-08T16:50:00.002+09:00

Our Ise visit ended with a trip to Mikimoto Pearl Island in Toba. (Actually Lyn dragged me along, but it was a whole lot more interesting than I'd expected.)

The manmade island houses a comprehensive museum dedicated to the science, industry and artistry of pearls and oysters, a memorial to the "Father of Cultured Pearls", a sales outlet and a demonstration of traditional diving techniques.

The story of Kokichi Mikimoto is inspirational. He was the hardworking son of an udon shop owner. A lifetime fascination, no, obsession, with oysters and pearls eventually led to the annual production of 10 million cultured pearls by 350 Japanese pearl farms by 1935.

Three demonstration divers plunged into the freezing grey ocean to retrieve oysters in the traditional manner - a simple face mask, loose cotton suit and no wetsuit. These ama (female divers) are photogenic young ones for the tourists and are the only ama who dive for oysters today. In Toba and Shima there are still 1300 working ama, although these days they dive for abalone, sea urchin, lobster, sea cucumber and octopus. They're an ageing workforce - the average age is 72!

Inserting the seed matrix and piece of mantle to encourage growth is virtually a surgical procedure.

Just a few of Mikimoto's exquisite and priceless artistic works.

day 340 - The Other Grand Shrine of Ise

2008-12-07T09:49:00.009+09:00

Naiku, the so-called Inner Shrine, is a short bus ride from the Outer Shrine. The surrounding grounds are amazingly beautiful in autumn. Even on a grey day, the momiji were ablaze.

Unable to see more than a golden glimpse of the shrine...

... we settled for yet more beautiful autumn maples near the Uji Bridge...

... and the Isuzu-gawa where the pilgrims purify themselves before visiting the shrine...

...the Shinto priests ...

... and the thousands of faithful pilgrims.

day 339 - The Grand Shrine of Ise

2008-12-06T14:18:00.003+09:00

Big lantern at the entrance to Ise Jingu.

There has been a shrine on this site for 1500 years.

Expecting huge crowds we arrive early to see Geku, the Outer Shrine of Ise, the holiest Shinto shrine.

But the shrine we see won't be the 5th C. version. An exact replica of the entire structure is built every 20 years, and the new one is consecrated. The timber from the old version is used to construct a new torii or donated to other shrines for repair work throughout the country. The structure pictured here was just a temporary one, but the techniques employed on the real shrine are similar - no screws or glue, just well-mitred interlocking joints and wooden dowels.

You're not supposed to take photos. I try to sneak a shot of Lyn entering.

I think that man-of-the-cloth is onto us...

Not being of the Shinto faith, we're not invited in, although there's no charge to stroll around the park-like grounds studded with ancient sugi - and everyone is very friendly.

This may be as close as we'll get to Ise-Jingu. This version was built in 1993 at a cost 5 billion Yen +. It will be replaced in five years.

At the end of our self-conducted tour we sneak one more image through the bushes of the gilded shrine which will be dismantled in 2013...

day 338 - Ise

2008-12-05T17:28:00.004+09:00

A large part of a day spent travelling by train from Shuzenji to Ise, the home of the most venerated Shinto shrine in Japan. The Lonely Planet describes the town as "drab" but we liked it.

We arrived late in the afternoon - just enough time to walk to the nearby district of Kawasaki Kaiwai with its old wooden shops and houses and watch the sun set over the canal.

day 337 - bali in Japan

2008-12-04T19:03:00.004+09:00

The Yutorian, Shuzenji.

Sorry if this a lot like an advertorial, but we really liked this place. It's a sprawling Balinese resort serving traditional ryokan-style food in a 1200 year old onsen / temple village!

The staff had about as much English as we had Japanese, but they were very friendly and anxious to help.

Banana palms.

In summer it would be just like Bali here - mushi atsui!

In autumn we were out of season - but we had a LOT of room to ourselves (including the onsen mentioned yesterday.)

Rob especially liked the bamboo theme, complete with giant bamboo furniture.

Balinese bamboo xylophone.

Rooftop gravel garden.

day 336 - Shuzenji

2008-12-03T20:21:00.007+09:00

Shuzenji is a very pretty onsen village in the middle of the Izu Peninsula, bisected by the gorge of the Katsura-gawa. Unfortunately while we were there its famous public onsen, Tokko-no-yu which stands on a rocky island in the middle of that river, was itself being bisected by earthmoving equipment as the riverbank was being 'renovated'.

It was here that Kobo Daishi (who began the monastery we visited in Koyasan) was said to have thrust his instrument into the rock (sounds painful?) and an onsen gushed forth. This hot-water spring celebrated its 1200th anniversary just last year.

Since the riverbanks were being 'renovated', for once we preferred the 'man-made cave onsen' at the Yutorian Resort which had the choice of segregated hours or shared hours for those who desire communal naked bathing.

The return of a favourite theme - autumn maples - momiji - and bamboo...

Lateral branches are nurtured and propped to survive the weight of the coming winter snow.

Once again an obliging passer-by offers to take our photo at the mon (gateway) to Shuzenji, the temple founded by Kobo Daishi in 807 which gives the village its name. (This building dates from 1849.)

Shuzenji Temple.

The perfect pine does not happen by accident. There's general shaping and then there's the removal of individual needles...

day 335 - Matsuzaki

2008-12-02T19:35:00.004+09:00

We'd seen the late Edo diamond-shaped tiles set in white all over Japan from Kyoto to Hagi, but we wanted to check out Matsuzaki were there are over 200 of these buildings preserved in a whole district...

This traditional style is called Namako-kabe - it's just square tiles of basalt or slate set diagonally in plaster. Very dramatic.

The Big Persimmon.

It was a grey day and with the monochrome buildings fruit and flower colours were enhanced without need of Photoshop!

The better houses have stucco plaster details called kote-e.

We made our way to the Izu Chohachi Art Museum...

Irie Chohachi (1815 - 99) executed fresco and stucco plaster-work of unimaginable detail. Every hair on the girl or horse, every fibre in the rope was rendered in plaster coloured with rock minerals. The only way to appreciate it fully was to use the provided magnifying glass!

day 333 - Shimoda 2

2008-12-01T17:28:00.004+09:00

We stayed out of Shimoda at yet another beach with the name Shirahama. It was a beautiful setting about 7Ks out of town, so we could walk or catch a bus, depending on the weather. (For Adelaide readers: if Shimoda with its hi-rise was like Glenelg, Shirahama was like the South Coast - a laid-back hangout for surfers.)

On the second day we walked into Shimoda along the coast, then took a ropeway to the top of Nesugata-yama.

Which way?

The plan was to walk down behind the mountain, back to Shirahama Beach. There were plenty of signs but our Kanji isn't so good. After a few anxious moments and some 'blue sky solutioneering', we made it back to the pension.

All of the little ryokan-style hotels in Shirahama are called 'pensions' (as well as a smattering of English, words from other European languages seem to be seen as stylish.) Our wonderful host (and former dancer) Yamamoto-san posed unabashedly for a departing photo!

day 334 - Irozaki

2008-11-30T21:38:00.004+09:00

The next morning the wind has dropped marginally and the planned boat trip from Shiroda to Irozaki goes ahead. The clunky old diesel-driven imitation Chinese junk looks seaworthy enough and we head south.

In the bays it's quite calm...

... but the open sea is rough. Amazingly, on nearly every outcrop there's a crazy rock fisherman with a death-wish. (You may have to double-click this one to see him.)

A generous passenger takes an extreme close-up of the happy couple.

There are inlets everywhere, and Irozaki Harbour's a complete contrast to the wind and waves just a few hundred metres away.

Lyn's didactic digit points out some of the local produce - edible shellfish (whelks?) and seaweed.

day 332 - Shimoda

2008-11-29T23:44:00.004+09:00

Beautiful weather. Thankfully there were no tsunamis we had to be careful to. (To which we had to be careful? Nani-nani...)

So anyway, we've just been on our final Big Holiday in Japan. We weren't online for a week or so, so these next few posts are retrospective.

Our first port-of-call was the beautiful city of Shimoda on the Izu Peninsula.

It also happens to play an important part in Japanese modern history, since it was here that US Naval Commander Perry arrived in the early 1850s with his fleet of steam-powered Black Ships and "suggested" that Japan might want to open up its ports for international trading. (Coincidentally there were also huge forests of oaks in the region which would make excellent charcoal for steam engines.)

It was good timing, as the major nations of the day had technologically by-passed Japan which was stuck in its own form of feudalism. The Meiji Restoration that followed was probably the antecedent to Japan's current strong economy and relatively affluent and stable society.

We went on a cruise around Shimoda Harbour on a diesel replica of the main Black Ship complete with dummy rotating paddle-wheel.

Perry and the US are celebrated widely here. The canal and street bear his name, and the whole incident has been absorbed into the Japan narrative.

Looking back at the modern resorts and the mini-torii - it's not Miyajima, but it's cute...

day 331 - Fujicolor

2008-11-28T23:43:00.002+09:00

After being amazed at the sheer height, mass, symmetry and beauty of Fuji-san, the first thing most people want to do is to capture the perfect image. Visibility is a problem. At that altitude, it's a rare day when there isn't cloud obscuring the summit.

The second problem is that most people are speeding past in a train. You may not want that factory in the foreground.

... or a wall.

A bridge is a little more aesthetic.

We scanned the horizon, fingers poised, all the way up the Izu Peninsula by bus between Dogashima and Shuzenji, envisaging curling waves with Fuji behind a la Hokusai, only to be foiled by cloud cover.

The following morning, as the local train pulled out of the Shuzenji station, there it was. Just sitting behind the houses and a row of hills...

day 330 - Bamboo. Leaf & motif

2008-11-27T20:22:00.005+09:00

The bamboo motif still crops up frequently as decoration on other works of art.

Bamboo-leaf motif.

Fushimi-Inari Taisha,

Kyoto.

Detail of a screen door at the home of Ganzan Harada-sensei (my shakuhachi teacher.)

Very cheap plate.

Himeji.

Ceramic,

Bizen

Sculpture,

Canal,

Ponticho, Kyoto

day 329 - bamboo. Ritual ablutions.

2008-11-26T19:25:00.010+09:00

Near every temple and shrine in Japan you'll find somewhere to perform ritual handwashing.

Shuzenji.

Traditionally these scoops were bamboo, although increasingly they seem to be aluminium or plastic.

The handle is driven into a slot in a larger culm.

Arashiyama.

Izu Shuzenji temple.

Occasionally the scoops are ingeniously crafted from a single piece of bamboo, with a side-shoot forming the handle.

day 328 - bamboo and ritual

2008-11-25T15:30:00.000+09:00

We were invited to our local shinto shrine Yashiro-Ohtashi for the annual Yudate purification rites. The priest boiled branches of bamboo, sprinkled the attendees with water and gave us miniature Chinowa wreaths to hang over our door at home for good fortune.

Lantern poles clash,

Aboshi Lantern Festival.

The young men of Shinzaike lead the parade and processional float at the recent Autumn Festival.

Pilgrims' Walking Sticks.

Outside Engyoji,

Mt Shosha.

Prayers and fortunes woven into bamboo around a sugi (Japanese Cedar.)

Izumotaisha,

Shimane.

Shrine,

Gion,

Kyoto.

day 327 - the bamboo brush-off.

2008-11-24T16:17:00.002+09:00

Animal-friendly brush.

Shuzenji

Shodo & Sumi-e.

Traditional fude for both sumi-e (brush painting) and shodo (brush calligraphy) were always bamboo with bristles from various animals. The exception were those made by certain Zen buddhist monks who refused to use animal products. The monks developed a technique of repeatedly splitting the fibres on the end of the bamboo (like a chasen tea-whisk) until they achieved a brush effect.

Sumi-e. One of the first subjects that sumi-e students tackle is bamboo itself...

A range of fude (calligraphy brushes.)

The brush individualises kanji characters. This is "Lyn" ("RIN" = trees or forest).

day 326 - bamboo to a Tea

2008-11-23T15:47:00.002+09:00

Tea Ceremony - also called The Way of Tea - has been an integral part of the Japanese way of life for centuries. The chasen (whisk), chashaku (tea powder scoop) and hishaku (hot water scoop) are all bamboo.

The chasen, ingeniously carved from a single piece of bamboo, is used to whisk the ground tea and water into a froth.

Chashaku. The tea scoop.

day 325 - bashing bamboo

2008-11-22T15:30:00.001+09:00

Bamboo as percussion...

Kokiriko - Ainokura Percussion.

When we stayed overnight in a gassho-zukuri (praying hands grass-house) in the Ainokura Valley our host demonstrated the kokiriko (Japanese onomatopoeia?) which was made from recycled bamboo from the roofs of old houses. Seasoned over decades - sometimes even hundreds of years - and impregnated with the smoke, soot and creosote from indoor fires, the percussion instrument had a very resonant cascading sound quality which accompanied traditional local songs and dances.

Bamboo chimes & xylophones are found throughout Asia, including Japan. These wind-chimes from our apartment sound a lot like Indonesian gamelan or Malaysian anklung.

day 324 - Akashi O-hashi

2008-11-21T18:07:00.000+09:00

Last weekend we had to see Kobe again. On the way we stopped to get a closer look at The Bridge we usually speed past on the way somewhere else.

An Australian callistemon bottlebrush grows on the pier under the huge Akashi Bridge. Akisho-Kaikyo O-Hashi is the world's longest suspension bridge (more than one-and-a-half Golden Gates.) It links Kobe (Honshu Island) with Iwaya (Awaji Island) and is one of a series which links Honshu to Shikoku across the Seto (Inland Sea.)

The Akashi Strait is a designated International Waterway which necessitated a minimum 1.5 km width unimpeded shipping lane. The distance between the two central pylons far exceeds this at 1.991 km. The overall length of the bridge is 3.9 km.

Sea-level view. The cables support a 6 lane expressway. Despite a toll of 2300 Yen (that's $A 36.56 at the current exchange), 23 000 cars use this crossing every day.

A separate service road and pedestrian walkway under the expressway.

The world-record 300 m. pylons are supported by equally monumental foundations, the biggest being 85 m wide and extending 65m below the sea-bed. That's a hell of a lot of concrete.

Bridge Under Construction. (Unknown photograher.)

Building began in 1986. When the disastrous Hanshin Earthquake struck in 95, the completed "twin towers" were moved apart more than a metre. After some quick recalculations the main span was infinitessimally widened. The bridge was completed in 1998.

My shoe appears bigger than the fishing boat 8 stories below the glass decking.

Even knowing the thick glass has withstood thousands of feet over ten years, there's still a slight feeling of vertigo seeing the sea so far below...

Viewed through the hole in this monument the bridge doesn't look all that big. You wouldn't know that those "thin" supporting cables are 1.1 metres thick or that they contain 300 000 kms of wire!

The Japanese are justifiably proud of Akashi O-Hashi. One of the early motivations for its construction was the sinking of two ferries in the 50s which resulted in the loss of 168 children. The bridge has been designed to withstand typhoons of 286 km/h and earthquakes measuring up to 8.5 (Richter.)

day 323 - bamboo breath...

2008-11-20T16:12:00.004+09:00

The Sho.

These are the ancient equivalent to a mouth organ. Generally made from the aged, blackened bamboo of an old thatched roof, they are increasingly hard to find. This one was played at Joken (Lyn's school's) Cultural Day.

The sound of bamboo.

Wind blowing through a bamboo forest shushes like the sea.

You may even hear the percussing of dead ones tapping against each other.

The sound of human breath through the shakuhachi is so much more complex than a modern western metal flute...

The shakuhachi is often called the 'Japanese Bamboo Flute', but there is also a transverse model like the Chinese version. We heard this 80+ year-old gentleman playing this 60 year old flute (which he made himself) at the Shinzaike Autumn Festival. He let me have a go and I was able to jump octaves by tightening my lips, as in shakuhachi. This man could produce beautiful clear notes up in the piccolo range.

The bamboo shakuhachi is necessarily handmade and owes its beautiful markings and curved shape to the bamboo root from which it's made. The bore has to be curved to follow the natural curvature of the selected "wood."

Detail from these living and cut bamboo stumps show the intrinsic patterning so skilfully exploited by the shakuhachi maker.

Being handmade, each of the shakuhachi belonging to Harada-sensei has its own unique properties of appearance and sound quality.

day 322 - personal bamboo breeze

2008-11-19T16:26:00.001+09:00

Traditional Japanese fans come in two types: the sensu (folding) and the uchiwa (flat).

Both were - and are - made of bamboo and paper, although you also often see plastic versions these days.

The beauty lies as much in the delicate painting as the exact construction.

Ryokan,

Miyajima.

Sensu are often intricately painted and occasionally have gold leaf applied.

Kanazawa Gold Leaf showrooms.

A range of sensu fans.

Souvenir shop,

Nijo-jo,

Kyoto

The uchiwa is made from just two pieces of bamboo. The handle is continuously split and splayed to form the ribs.

Zuiganji,

Mt Masui

These uchiwa fans may be decorated just as diversely as the folding variety.

Display,

Kokoen Gardens,

Himeji Castle.

day 322 - personal bamboo - shade

2008-11-18T17:13:00.000+09:00

Like the lanterns, traditional Japanese parasols were painstakingly made from waterproofed paper, bamboo, glue and thread...

Monks' parasols,

Koyasan.

Kinosaki.

Parading the parasols.

Himeji.

day 321 - let there be (bamboo) light...

2008-11-17T17:01:00.002+09:00

[Thousands of people have emailed and begged me to post more bamboo images. Who am I to ignore the masses? - Rob]

Nothing says "Japan" like a traditional bamboo/ paper lantern...

Man-height traditional bamboo and paper lantern.

Ponticho district,

Kyoto.

Lanterns,

Gion, Kyoto

Lone lantern,

Aboshi.

Lantern festival.

Shinto Shrine,

Oshio.

Lanterns being disintegrated.

Aboshi Lantern Festival.

The bamboo-and-washi lamp in our apartment.

day 320 - yet more autumn & see ya Reg & Pat...

2008-11-16T15:28:00.005+09:00

Multifarious!

Still on the Taishaku River. No colour-enhancement here - it really is a gorgeous gorge!

Thanks Yoko for a wonderful weekend!

Tree on Fire!

Interestingly the kanji character for autumn (aki) is the character for 'tree' (nogihen) combined with 'fire' (hi), which is very poetic.

Under the Bridge.

We hiked to Onbashi, a natural limestone 'bridge' - supposedly the biggest in Japan - spanning the Taishaku River.

Goodbye, Reg & Pat (who've already left Japanese autumn and returned to late Adelaide spring.) See you back in Oz...

day 319 - more autumn.

2008-11-15T17:25:00.000+09:00

After Fukiya, Yoko drove us to the Taishakukyo Gorge. The deciduous trees around Lake Shinryu were spectacular...

Autumn Backlight,

Shinryu Lake.

The Boat.

Bridge Crossing.

Reg in autumn profile.

River-swept leaves.

The Bridge.

day 318 - It's autumn!

2008-11-14T17:31:00.002+09:00

In case you hadn't noticed, it's autumn here. These few shots are around Fukiya...

day 317 - a walk in the mountains

2008-11-13T16:01:00.010+09:00

On Sunday we walked up a mountain near Fukiya to see the mansion-like residence (1810) of the Hirokane dynasty which owned copper mines hereabouts two centuries ago.

The sky's ribs.

(We see a lot of cloud formations here we don't see in Australia!)

View from a mansion.

The Japanese equivalent of a gargoyle?

day 316 - out & about in Fukiya

2008-11-12T17:10:00.010+09:00

Kaki (persimmons) drying in the sun.

The Back Garden.

Scorched.

Pine and cedar weatherboards were made more insect- and weather-resistant by scorching the surface.

Just one momiji (Japanese maple) leaf.

Perhaps the Japanese equivalent of Virginia Creeper or Boston Ivy?

Wakarimasen...

Maples on Main Street.

Very old trunks. Very young leaves.

Deserted House.

day 315 - to Fukiya!

2008-11-11T17:33:00.008+09:00

Fukiya Woodblock print.

(Artist unknown.)

Fukiya was established in the late C18th/early C19th. It's one of the best architecturally-integrated villages of its type and is now preserved by law. We stayed there with Reg, Pat & Yoko and had a FANTASTIC time.

We stayed in the Fukiya International Villa, very spacious accommodation modelled after an old soy-sauce warehouse.

Every window offered another vista of this Meiji-period village

During the day bus coaches disgorge their cargo onto the streets. Larger coaches just manage to fit between the roofs of the main street. In the evenings and on Monday we felt like we had the village to ourselves!

Another great view from the villa.

The dominant colour of the village comes from the iron-oxide rich clay. Even the local cloth was coloured the same rust-red from the traditional Bengara dye.

day 314 - Bizen - Pottery paradise

2008-11-10T20:29:00.011+09:00

The potter's thumbprint.

We've waited a long time to visit Bizen, a village in Okayama prefecture famous for its pottery. The area has unique clay and consequently its pottery, which relies on its uniqueness of colour and absence of glaze.

Kiln chimney.

Bizen is dominated by the small potteries and kilns - some of which have existed here since medieval times.

Unfired work. The local clay is high in iron. Most potteries stockpile their work and have only one or two firings a year.

The kilns, fuelled by local red pine, are generally built on the sides of hills so the heat draughts upwards for 5 days to two weeks, resulting in extraordinary temperatures and an almost metallic look and occasionally prized random distortion.

The incredible heat produced, plus the combination of secret organic elements (like straw and bark) results in remarkable colours.

Our friend Yoko stands amongst part of the amazing range of products from an annual firing.

The accumulated skill of many generations of ceramic artists plus the natural elements of fire and earth produce these masterpieces...

day 313 - bamboo. Just a pole...

2008-11-09T16:51:00.001+09:00

Just a pole. So many possibilities...

Around here you'll find a bamboo pole in many back sheds supporting the drying annual crop of onions.

"We Didn't Start the Fire."

The hostess at our stay in a Gassho Zukuri ('praying hands' grass house) in Ainokura Valley gets the evening fire going in the irori (traditional fireplace.)

Punting pole.

Canal, Kurashiki.

Drying racks for kelp.

San-in coast.

These streamers-on-poles are called haraigushi. The streamers or shide are the same zigzag paper streamers you see on Shinto shrines. When attached to the stick (kushi), they become rallying 'flags' for religious festivals and even prods to protect mikoshi (portable shrines) in yatai fighting festivals.

The guy on the pole both propels the boat and protects it from rocks on the Hozugawa (Hozu River.)

day 312 - bamboo - common garden variety...

2008-11-08T16:20:00.002+09:00

The delicate bamboo fence is overwhelmed by the giant specimens within!

Matsue.

Minimalist garden.

Hotel,

Shirarahama Beach,

Wakayama.

One-foot-wide-garden.

Saga-Arashiyama.

Variegated variety.

Matsue.

The view from the tea rooms.

Okochi-sanso Villa,

Arashiyama.

day 311 - bamboo (12) garden support

2008-11-07T16:35:00.000+09:00

This beautiful old gnarled pine gets protection from mechanical damage with a bamboo sheath.

Matsue-jo moat,

Matsue.

Giant bamboo stakes used to support and train a replanted advanced tree.

These armature/ pergola structures are commonly used around here to lift weeping branches so people can sit under the trees.

Kokoen,

Himeji

Recycled bamboo. A local man salvages garden stakes from an old blind.

Shinzaike,

Himeji

day 310 - bamboo (11) - the water garden

2008-11-06T15:50:00.002+09:00

Water spouts from the mouth of Inari the 'fox god',

Inari Taisha,

Kyoto.

This screen crosses a pond, still allowing views and reflections...

Kokoen,

Himeji.

Bamboo has traditionally piped water since the 'deer scarer.'

Day 309 - just what you wanted! - more bamboo gates & fences!!!

2008-11-05T21:09:00.009+09:00

Fence (detail)

Kokoen,

Himeji

Living fence,

Engyoji,

Mt Shosha

Himeji

Oblique pattern,

Kokoen,

Himeji.

Screen,

Okochi-sanso Villa,

Arashiyama.

Gate,

Okochi-sanso Villa,

Arashiyama.

Fence & gate,

Kokoen,

Himeji

day 308 - Hi Reg & Pat!

2008-11-04T20:02:00.006+09:00

We interrupt bamboo to welcome Reg & Pat! We've had a great time over the last few days riding around Himeji and heading off to Mt Shosa and Kyoto. This was our first trial of the treadlies.

[NB: Treadly is an Aussie word for jitensha.]

Among the masks,

Pottery market, Himeji.

Outside the Hasui Kawase ukiyo-e exhibition at Himeji Art Museum.

Under the torii at Inari Taisha,

Kyoto

day 307 - bamboo (9) - fences

2008-11-03T16:47:00.000+09:00

Autumn leaves through the fence.

Kokoen,

Himeji

Diamond fence,

Kokoen,

Himeji

Fence & gate

Kokoen,

Himeji

Back Fence,

Shiroyama

day 306 - bamboo (9) - garden accessories

2008-11-02T04:41:00.000+09:00

Bamboo broom.

You can buy modern plastic brooms here as anywhere else in the world, but the old bamboo variety is still commonly used for yard & garden sweeping.

'Cleaning school before Graduation.'

Sanyo High,

Himeji

Momiji (Japanese maples) in bamboo pots.

Engyoji,

Mt Shosha,

Himeji

Bamboo rakes.

day 305 - bamboo (8) - garden architecture

2008-11-01T16:17:00.000+09:00

The bamboo grapevine pergola.

Tangashima.

Back in summer we joined a group to clean up litter on a beach on this nearby island in the Inland Sea. The makeshift shacks and the clever improvised use of resources reminded me of Yorke Peninsula in South Australia.

The Back Gate,

Shiroyama.

day 304 - bamboo (7) - food and drink

2008-10-31T16:52:00.000+09:00

Bamboo skewers are used widely for fish and chicken in yakitori.

Bamboo shoot.

Amazingly, the shoot already contains all the divisions and nodes which will later be formed in mature bamboo. We'd only ever eaten the canned stuff in Australia, but fresh, they're amazing! Unfortunately they're only available fresh for a few weeks in spring every year.

Cups.

Korakuen,

Okayama.

Because of its very fine grain, bamboo is ideal for spoons, rice paddles and chopsticks.

day 303 - bamboo (6) - Design

2008-10-30T16:32:00.000+09:00

Leaves.

Family Crest near Matsue Castle.

Bamboo has a rich history in Japanese design. It may symbolise Nature, Purity, Strength or Fexibility in the form of leaves, shoots or culms. Flowering or snow-covered it may be a metaphor for season. It can be found in crests or represented on a bamboo product itself, such as a screen or fan.

Lantern base in the shape of a bamboo stalk.

Zuiganji,

Masuiyama

Ceramic roof tiles may have originally been capping to extend the life of bamboo rafters.

Zuiganji.

Sparrows nesting in leaves.

Edo Period painted shoji screen,

Old Hagi.

day 302 - bamboo (5) - furnishing

2008-10-29T17:16:00.002+09:00

So many varieties.

Bamboo workshop,

Kyoto.

Bamboo gives privacy, adds organic texture, divides spaces...

Shirahamakan Hotel,

Shirarahama Beach,

Shirahama.

Bamboo blind and shamisen.

Kanazawa.

Hanging 'mobile' and feature wall.

Len restaurant,

Miyukidori

Himeji

day 301 - bamboo (4) - windows

2008-10-28T17:32:00.004+09:00

Bamboo bars on the top floor of Matsumoto castle give a definite Japanese flavour to this open-air window.

The structural grid-pattern was often left unplastered to form a window.

Samurai quarters,

Old Hagi

In the days before glass, bamboo provided some security and privacy but still alowed a view of an atrium-style garden.

Geisha House,

Kanazawa.

A cross-section of bamboo makes an interesting window feature.

Geisha House,

Kanazawa

day 300 - bamboo (3) - walls and roofs

2008-10-27T21:43:00.006+09:00

Bamboo was often used as rafters for thatched roofs all over Japan.

Eaves.

Wattle and daub.

This technique can be found throughout the world. Sticks and clay strengthened with straw. In Japan the 'sticks' were usually split bamboo.

Wall,

Hagi.

Deconstructed wall.

Time is undoing the construction process.

Derelict farmhouse, Hayashida.

day 299 - bamboo (2) - construction

2008-10-26T17:59:00.008+09:00

Bamboo isn't much used structurally today in contemporary buildings, although it seems to be regaining popularity in ornamentation. This museum at the foot of Mt Shosa (out of Himeji) is itself built inside a tiny grove of bamboo and harmonises with both the vegetation and the mountain.

Shosa-no-sato.

Its hollowness gives it lightness, but it's the dividing lateral nodes which provide strength.

Lashed together it's a firm platform.

Traditional bamboo floor around the irori (sunken fireplace.)

Housing Museum,

Shikoku

Fence rail,

Arashiyama.

Bamboo scaffolding is extremely flexible - a huge advantage in a country where earth tremors are common. When we first visited Singapore in 1978 multistorey buildings were being constructed inside of tied bamboo rigging ten storeys high.

day 298 - beautiful bamboo

2008-10-25T17:53:00.008+09:00

A massive bamboo stem thrusts into the sky beside the Bitchu Kokobun-ji Pagoda on the Kibi Plain. Hard to believe it's a grass, not a tree...

Bamboo - take - is such an integral part of the culture that it's impossible to spend a day here without seeing or touching the stuff.

It weaves its way through Japanese folk tales, ritual and religion - indeed the entire history of the Japanese people. It forms the structure of their houses, the raw material for their arts and crafts. It's eaten. It's appreciated for its strength, flexibility and intrinsic beauty.

Over the next few weeks I'll be sharing some of images of bamboo in Japan. I hope you're as fascinated by the stuff as I am!

Shosa-no-sato

Arashiyama.

Feature wall,

Otemae Restaurant,

Hayashida.

Old Window,

derelict house,

Hayashida

day 297 - Conspicuous Consumption

2008-10-24T17:14:00.005+09:00

Denki gomi. Electrical trash. There's a great system here for rubbish collection. If it works, people help themselves...