The Return (Day 20) Going, going... gone? Typhoon Melor.

(Not much of a photo, but it tells the story - flooded rivers and unusually deserted streets). 

We left our hotel early to meet the students at Tokyo Station. The information screens on the train were announcing the closure of many services due to to the typhoon. At Tokyo station we found that our express to Narita had been cancelled, but we were able to take an earlier but slower local train. There were a lot of delays along the way. On arrival at Narita it was confirmed that our Singapore Airlines flight had been delayed for 8 hours, but they could organise 12 tickets on an ANA flight leaving in an hour or so. But the time we'd been weighed, re-ticketed and x-rayed we had to run the length of the airport to make our flight!

The take-off was the scariest I've experienced. As the winds buffeted the jet, it swerved from side to side as it accelerated up the runway. We were getting knocked around in the seats. The turbulence continued for at least the first 15 minutes of the flight - until we were above the weather. Amazingly, after our little adventure, we didn't get into Changi any later than our original schedule!

When the train doors opened it was obvious that the winds were still high...

(photo from ABC online)

(photo from CBS)

(photo from Times online)
5:33 a.m.: Not sure at this stage whether Typhoon Melor will ground our flight or not...

6:30 pm (Singapore time) We got out! It was only later that we saw the damage on the news...

The Return (Day 19) - Sayonara

Our last day at Asuka Senior High and the students put on a fantastic Sayonara party - lots of laughs, tears, food, music and exchanging of gifts!

We hope this is only the end of the first chapter of lifetime relationships between Japanese and Aussies.

The Return (Day 18) Tokyo Disneyland!

Enjoying my time with nine teenagers on a train bound for Tokyo Disneyland…

The Rainiest Kingdom of Them All. The bad news is that it’s raining. The good news is that it’s kept the crowds away  so the queues are all short for the rides and movies…

Not really Lake Disney - just lights reflected in the puddles at the entrance.

A bit corny, but great singing, dancing and special effects.

This place is huge. You can even stay onsite at Disney Resort if you’re not short of yen.

Not just for children. All Japanese seem to be childlike in their love of the Disney fantasy and characters.

And some of the gaijin are rapt too…

On safari on the Jungle Cruise.

The Halloween Grand Parade.

The Return (Day 17) Back-to-school

Another day at school. Ceramics class.

English language lab.

Back near our hotel, admiring the fantastic contemporary architecture for which Shinjuku is famous. The rainforest buttressed-rooted-like Yasuda Kasai Kaijo building reflected in the Zenken building’s glass walls.

The Mode Hal Iko building.

A very wet view from the 50^th floor of the Nomura building.

 

You get a lot of exercise in Japan just crossing a busy street – major intersections have pedestrian subterranean arcades or overpasses. Behind this one again, the Yasuda Kasai Kaijo.

Pachinko parlours abound. I can’t quite see the attraction of these pinball machines but they are EVERYWHERE.

The Return (Day 16) Shibuya, Harajuku, Yoyogi & Blue Note!

We began the day in Shibuya to check out the Love Hotels on Dogen-zaka. Most hotels have foyer displays of the rooms. This one had a push-button service to reserve a room for a night or a “rest” – all done anonymously.

One of the now-famous capsule hotels for men only. Shibuya.

Bo Peeps. Harajuku station.

It was Doll’s Day at Meiji-jingu Shrine. Dolls have souls, so when their useful life has expired, must have their souls put to rest by the priests. There were tens of thousands of dolls, teddies and stuffed-toys on display. Afterwards they are disposed of “in a respectful way.”

One of the less cool shoppers on Takeshita-dori, Harajuku.

Tshirt, Takeshita-dori, Harajuku.

The highlight of my day was seeing one of the world’s great jazz acoustic bass players Ron Carter with his quartet. At 8,400 Yen for about 70 minutes, it wasn’t something that a public school teacher can afford every day – but I’ve been a fan of Ron Carter’s for years and who wouldn’t do this while in Tokyo?!

The Return (Day 15) - Kamakura

We’d planned to visit Nikko for the day but a nice ex-pat Colombian we met on the train suggested this was better! Once the capital of Japan, (1185 to 1333) Kamikura is still a pleasant little train trip to the country just outside of Tokyo with beautiful temples and the amazing Daibutsu.

The Daibutsu (Great Buddha), second in size only to Todai-ji’s we saw earlier in Nara. Incredible that something 13m tall and weighing 850 tonnes could have been cast from bronze in 1252 - 857 years ago! Like the ancient Greek statues or Michelangelo’s David, the head is enlarged so that it looks perfectly-proportioned when viewed from the front base.

As you move away the head seems to grow. Like its Nara counterpart, the statue was originally protected in a huge wooden hall, but an enormous tsunami washed it away in 1495 and it’s stood exposed to the elements ever since. An earthquake in 1923 destroyed the stone pedestal, but the bronze image remained intact.

The “wings” in the back are shutters to allow light inside. From behind you can clearly see some of the 30 cast sections which were fused on-site.

For a small fee you can enter the Buddha and look right up into its hollow head. The whole edifice now stands on a shock-absorbed stainless-steel plate, so it should survive quakes in the future.

Sadly the rain became constant, so we abandoned our hiking course and headed back to Hase-dera to see the gilded 8^th C. 9m high carving of Kannon (no photo permitted) and the thousands of Jizo, patron of the souls of departed children. 

Symbol of autumn, the Japanese Red Dragonfly. (Hasa-dera Gardens)

As well as the usual traditional noh characters, a stall outside Hachimangu Shrine also sold these more contemporary icons.

The Return (Day 14) - Asuka

Today was our first full day at Asuka High. Our students participated in a range of lessons with their host buddies. We got to wander around the school and join in too.

Asuka is a kind of experimental state high school with special selection (about a third boys, two-thirds girls.) There is a strong emphasis on practical subjects and The Arts. The works on the walls were of a high standard.

Horticulture is also on the curriculum. I think these guys were picking grubs off the cabbages.

Some of our students had a go at Sakura on koto. Tash was a natural...

Another fantastic painting by a former student.

Sitting badminton. It improves accuracy.

Jack and friend mime a Tug o' war in a drama lesson. Drama in high school is unusual here.

In the evening the English teachers and Kocho-sensei took us out to a sumptuous kaiseki feast at Sugamo restaurant

The Return (Day 13) Shinjuku, Asakusa & Harajuku

Our first day in Tokyo is a public holiday – the perfect opportunity for our students to explore the huge city with their host families and for us to get to the markets at Asakusa.

We start off where every tourist begins – the Kamanarimon gate to Nakamise shopping street and the Senso-ji temple.

 

Communal stroller

You can buy pretty much anything in these stalls…

Worshippers purify themselves with incense before praying in the temple

A procession of monks files past the Hozo-mon.

Touching these giant rice-straw rope sandals is supposed to make you a good walker. I always strive to be a better Walker 

In the afternoon we took a train to Takeshita Street in Harajuku. It's a busy place.

Busy places have to have rules...

The Return (Day 12) - The Way of Tea

First some more from yesterday. After Mt Shosha we made our way to the Hyogo Museum of History with its displays of the prefecture’s wares over the millennia.

Himeji castle is reflected in the glass walls of the museum.

Charlie dons a samurai warrior’s helmet.

Charlie dons a samurai warrior's helmet.

Tash won the lottery-draw to be dressed in the junihitoe (12-layered kimono) formerly worn by princesses.

Now to today...

The Way to Tea. We follow the back-streets of Himeji behind the castle to the home of Itsuyo...

Itsuyo Tatsuta has been learning The Way of Tea from her Sensei in Kyoto for almost 30 years. When she heard we were coming back she said she and her Tea students would love to instruct our students in The Way of Tea. The new name for Tea Ceremony is appropriate – it’s a whole field of knowledge applying not just to the ritual itself, but the pottery, the bamboo-craft, the art, the flower-arranging, the poetry and the seasonal aspect of sharing tea and sweets with special guests. We were very honoured to be given the opportunity to be given instruction in the centuries-old traditions of tea and to participate in the making and serving of O-cha. 

Mitchell whisks...

Mitchell whisks...

Alex wipes.

The Return (Day 11) Engyoji

Today we caught a No. 8 bus and a ropeway (cablecar) to the Engyoji Temple Complex at Mt Shosha. 8 of the temple buildings and 7 of the Buddhas are classified as "Important Cultural Properties."

The 2km walk from the cablecar station to the top of the mountain is lined with dozens of statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy also known as Boddhisatva. Some of the images are senju-kannon, the thousand-armed incarnation who is capable of helping all.

Ryan rings the giant bronze bell which on New Year is tolled 108 times - one for each of the human failings which Buddha is said to have overcome.

At the top of Mt Shosha we met our monk guide who explained something of Buddhist philosophy.

The Daikodo - the beautiful 15th Century wooden lecture hall in the background - has found fame in contemporary times  featuring in The Last Samurai. We had the special privilege of a calligraphy lesson where we traced over sutra -"shakyo"- (thoughts of the Budddha) with sumi-e brush and ink.

Sam, Jack & Shaun concentrating.

My very poor attempt at kanji calligraphy.

Then our monk guide gave us instruction in za-zen (sitting meditation). He explained the "here and now" philosophy and the need to allow thoughts to flow - to "come and go". We all surprised ourselves by sitting relatively still in the ancient darkened hall for about 20 minutes and achieving a feeling of silent calmness. Afterwards our monk demonstrated the "light whack" on Shaun. This is requested by the "whackee" by the prayer gesture to correct posture and avoid sleepiness!

The Return (Day 10) I still call Himeji home...

Coming back to Himeji is like returning home for us. Old friends met us at the JR station and our hotel and joined us for lunch in the bailey in front of Himeji castle

The kind, smiling face of our dear old friend Toshi.

The intricate multiple roofs of Himeji castle.

The students were very interested in the history, design and defences of the 4oo year-old castle, thanks to the knowledge of our 3 guides Toshi-san, Keiko-san and Hata-san. We presented them with Aussie bucket-hats. Oi, oi, oi!

The Return (Day 9) Iwakuni

We took a local train to Iwakuni (just inside Yamaguchi prefecture) famous for Kintai-kyo, a picturesque 5-arched wooden bridge built in 1673 and washed away by flood in 1950.

With typical Japanese ingenuity, a perfect replica was erected by 1953, complete with disguised  internal reinforcements.

We crossed the Kintai-kyo Bridge to the old Samurai Quarter and climbed the hill to the reconstructed Iwakuni Castle originally built from 1603 - 8.

Trained monkey performing in the park by the old Samurai Quarter.

The Return (Day 8) Miyajima and Hiroshima

The morning was spent on the beautiful island of Miyajima. Lyn & I managed to get away from the kids long enough to ask a passing Japanese tourist to take a shot of us almost at the foot of the floating torii on a low tide...

The afternoon was spent at Hiroshima's Peace Park and Peace Museum. 140,000 deaths is an almost meaningless statistic - until you read the names and stories of the individuals who were affected. This is a watch which stopped at the time of the world's first atomic explosion designed to kill civilians on the morning of August 6th, 1945.

The sandals of the now-famous Sadako, who died of leukemia while trying to complete her 1,000 paper cranes.

We were all pretty depressed after spending the afternoon at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, so it was nice when an 80+ local gentleman ("Tachibana-san") introduced himself and welcomed us to Hiroshima. He had escaped the A- bomb as he'd been conscripted to mainland China in 1945.

The Return (Day 7)- Kyoto-Okayama-Kurashiki-Hiroshima

Charlie snaps Japanese tourists.

Canal, Kurashiki.

Jack & Shaun trying to catch freshwater shrimp in the canal.

Kurashiki.

Turtles sunning themselves.

Ivy Square, Kurashiki.

View of the courtyard, Ohara Art Museum, Kurashiki.

The kids like the Shinkansen!

The Return (Day 6)

The Tachibana teachers organised a day for our students at Mimaki, a typical Kyoto Elementary School. Here we are trying to teach them 'Home Among the Gum Trees'!

Cleaning time. Ahh, the memories...

After the students returned to their host families, Keiko - one of the Tachibana High teachers - kindly led us on a tour of the Gekkeikan saka-gura (sake brewery.)

The Return (Day 5) Nara

Leah, Alex & Tash pose in front of the tallest of the pagodas at Kofuku-ji. The 5-storey wooden structure was constructed in 1426.

Couldn't get the name of this one. Can anyone help? Apparently you rub any injured part of your body and the corresponding part on the statue and it's all better.

The Daibutsu-den Hall within the Todai-ji complex is the biggest wooden building in the world. It was rebuilt in 1709 at a mere two thirds of its original size. The Daibutsu (Great Buddha) within is cast from 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold.

Behind the giant Buddha, cut into the base of a  supporting pillar, is a square hole reputedly the same size as the Great Buddha's nostril. It's said that the person who can fit through the hole will become enlightened. This kid is yet to be enlightened.

Made it! She will be enlightened...

No trip to Kyoto would be complete without a visit to the nearby Nara, Japan's capital 1300 years ago!

The Return (Day 4)

Reflection of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in its surrounding pond.

The Woodcroft kids' host buddies join us for a group shot at the main gate of Nijo-jo.

Genki Sean, Jack, Charlie & Ryan goofing around outside the entrance to Nijo Palace.

Today we took our students to Kinkakuji ("The Golden Pavilion") and Niji-jo (The Nijo Castle)

The Return (day 3)

At night Yoko showed us part of old Gion we hadn't visited before , the original Tea House and pleasure district where the art of geisha originated.

After a small donation to the temple, Kelly soaks her paper in water to reveal her Good Fortune...

Kimone no Michi. ("The Path of Tree Roots") over the pass.

Lunch on a stream...

The route over Mt Kurama.

View from Kurama-dera.

Great views on the way up to Kibune...

Tengu and big-nosed- gaijin...

Lunch at Kibune.

A free day for the students today to spend with their host families around Kyoto, so a "rest" day for us, too! It was a public holiday today - part of "Silver Week" - so we didn't rest! We met up with our old friend Yoko from Himeji, took a bus & train to Kibune-Guchi, then hiked to Kibune where we had a fantastic traditional Japanese lunch on a platform over a mountain stream. Then we walked up Mt Kurama, visited Kurama-dera Temple and then down thousands of stone steps to the town of Kurama in the valley on the other side of the mountain. It was a beautiful autumn day - too early for many coloured leaves yet - warm enough for hiking but not too hot.

Then it was back to old Gion with its tea-houses and old geiko (geisha) district, okonomiyaki and beer for dinner and back to the hotel exhausted.

Thanks for a wonderful day, Yoko!

The Return (Day 2)

Our students learn the intricasies of Inside Shoes and Shoe Lockers. (Tachibana Koko, Kyoto)

"Beauty with Equity." Litter sign, Kawaramachi Dori, Kyoto.

We're ba-ack... The Return, day 1

We have returned to Japan! This time accompanied by Kerry and 9 very nice 15 and 16 year olds. We spent day 1 going from Kansai to Kyoto by train. Here we are on the 10 storey high walkway above the beautiful Kyoto JR station Kyoto behind.